Have you ever put on a suit jacket at some point and thought, “Wait, why am I leaving this bottom button undone?” Trust me, you’re definitely not the first person to wonder about this. It’s honestly a pretty common question that we get here at Pearce Bespoke, and I actually love talking about it because there’s way more to this little detail than most people realize.

The “Sometimes, Always, Never” Thing (And Why It Actually Matters)

Okay, so if you’re new to the whole suit game, here’s the deal:

•Three-button jacket: You can button the top one if you want, always do the middle, and never—and I mean never—touch that bottom one.

•Two-button jacket: Button the top, leave the bottom alone.

Now, I know what you’re thinking. “This sounds like some made-up rule that fashion people invented to make the rest of us feel stupid.” But honestly? There’s actually a pretty good reason behind it, and it’s not just some random tradition that stuck around.

A Little History Lesson (That’s Actually Pretty Entertaining)

So here’s where it gets interesting. This whole bottom-button thing? It goes back to the early 1900s, and you’ll never guess who we have to thank for it—King Edward VII. Now, this guy really knew how to live. He loved his food, enjoyed life to the fullest, and let’s just say his waistline reflected that enthusiasm.

The story goes that Edward got to the point where buttoning the bottom button on his waistcoat was just… uncomfortable. Instead of getting his clothes altered (which, let’s be honest, would’ve been the logical thing to do), he just started leaving it undone. And because he was the king, everyone else started doing it too. You know how it is—when royalty does something, it becomes fashionable pretty quickly.

As for the Suit Jacket, There’s Actually a Really Good Practical Reason

Beyond the whole royal history thing, leaving that bottom button undone on the jacket just makes sense from a practical standpoint. When you keep it unbuttoned, your jacket drapes way better over your hips while sitting or moving around. It creates this clean line that looks natural, and more importantly, it’s actually comfortable.

This became especially important back when guys were wearing suits for horseback riding. Can you imagine trying to ride a horse with your jacket buttoned all the way up? Not happening. The suit jacket basically replaced the traditional riding coat, so it needed to work for an active lifestyle.

Here’s the thing—if you button all the buttons, the jacket starts pulling in weird ways and the whole silhouette gets messed up. And trust me, when you’re paying for quality tailoring (whether it’s with us or anyone else), you want that jacket to look exactly the way it was designed to look.

What’s really cool is that tailors and designers actually started cutting jackets and waistcoats to look better with that bottom button open. So what started as one guy’s comfort issue became the foundation for how we design suits today. Sometimes the best rules come from the most unexpected places, right?

That’s actually something we think about a lot when we’re fitting jackets here at Pearce Bespoke. We cut and fit everything so it looks its absolute best when you wear it the traditional way. The “always, never” rule isn’t just some arbitrary thing we made up—it’s literally built into how a well-made suit is constructed.

Why Understanding the “Why” Actually Matters

Look, good style isn’t really about memorizing a bunch of rules and following them blindly. It’s about understanding why those rules exist in the first place and how they can actually make you look and feel better. When someone chooses to work with us, they’re not just getting a suit—they’re getting all the knowledge that goes with it.

I genuinely love walking clients through this stuff. From picking out the perfect fabric (which is way more fun than it sounds) to explaining little details like this button rule, it’s all part of creating something that’s going to make you feel confident every time you put it on. Whether you’re heading into a big meeting, going to a fancy event, or just want to look sharp on a regular Tuesday, knowing the reasoning behind these details makes a real difference.

There’s something pretty satisfying about wearing a suit and actually understanding all the thought that went into it. It’s like being in on a secret that most people don’t know about.

Oh, and one more tidbit: This “rule” does not apply to women’s suits. Perhaps, because back then, not only did women not wear suits, but they traveled on horseback in dresses and a side saddle.

Want to Learn More About This Stuff?

If you’re curious about other style details like this—or if you’ve been thinking about trying out the whole bespoke experience—I’d love to chat. We bring the entire process right to you, which honestly makes the whole thing way more relaxed and enjoyable than the traditional tailor shop experience.

At Pearce Bespoke, we’re pretty passionate about making sure every client gets something that’s not just perfectly fitted, but also thoughtfully crafted. There’s a lot that goes into creating a great suit, and we think you should understand and appreciate every bit of it.

You can check out more about what we do at pearcebespokeatl.com or if you want to talk directly, shoot me an email at aruff@pearcebespoke.com. I’m always happy to answer questions about suits, style, or anything else related to looking your best. If you are in the Atlanta area and are ready to book a consultation, go here: https://calendly.com/aruff-pearcebespoke

Not in Altanta? Check out pearcebespoke.com to find a clothier near you!


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